You can identify a lead pipe in about ten minutes. Find where the water line enters your home, clean a small spot on the pipe, and check three things: color, softness and magnetism. A lead pipe is dull gray, soft enough to scratch with a key, turns shiny silver when scratched, and a magnet will not stick to it. Before you do any of that, look up your water utility’s service line inventory, because the answer may already be on file for your address.
This guide walks through both routes, explains what the results mean, and tells you when a licensed plumber should take over. It also covers what replacement costs, what it means if you are selling, and how landlords and tenants usually divide the responsibility.
TL;DR
- Start with your water utility’s public service line inventory, then confirm on site at the pipe where it enters your home.
- Scratch test: lead is dull gray, soft, turns shiny silver when scratched, and is not magnetic. Copper looks like a new penny. A magnet sticks to galvanized steel.
- Galvanized lines count as lead-risk lines under current EPA rules, so a magnet that sticks is not a clean bill of health.
- Only a lab test of your water tells you how much lead you are actually drinking. Pipe identification tells you the material, not the concentration.
- If you find lead or galvanized pipe, ask for a full replacement quote. Partial replacement can stir up lead.
Table of Contents
- Why the service line is the pipe to check
- Step 1: Check your utility’s records first
- Step 2: Find the right place to test
- Step 3: Run the scratch and magnet tests
- What each result usually means
- Why galvanized pipe matters too
- When the test is unclear or you cannot reach the pipe
- Test your water, too
- Replacement: full line, not half
- Living through a remodel when lead is a possibility
- Selling a home with lead pipes
- Landlord or tenant: who handles lead pipes?
- Our perspective: what we see on the job
- When to bring in a licensed plumber
- FAQ
- Sources
Why the service line is the pipe to check
The service line is the pipe that connects the water main under the street to your home. Historically, many of these were made of lead, and lead can enter drinking water as the pipe corrodes or wears away. EPA’s own assessment is that where lead service lines exist, they represent the greatest source of lead exposure in drinking water.
The scale is large. EPA estimates there are four million lead service lines across the country. Lead can also come from other plumbing materials installed before the ban, so older fixtures and interior plumbing are worth a look too, but the service line is where most homeowners should begin.
There is a catch: you cannot detect lead in water by sight, taste or smell. EPA says the way to know whether your water contains lead is to have it tested. Identifying the pipe is the first half of the job. Testing is the second.
Step 1: Check your utility’s records first
Under the Lead and Copper Rule Improvements (LCRI), utilities must build and maintain service line inventories that the public can see. EPA describes identification as a shared responsibility, and its guidance points residents to the utility’s inventory as a first stop. It may already hold verified data on your property.
What you will find varies by city. In Burbank, California, for example, Burbank Water and Power reports on its water line inventory page that it physically inspected all service lines in its distribution system, regardless of ownership, and verified that they contain no lead. If you live in Burbank, that is strong reassurance, though the pipes inside your home are a separate question.
Elsewhere, the inventory may list your line as lead, galvanized requiring replacement, non-lead or unknown. Treat “unknown” as a prompt to check, not as a pass. Utilities face a November 1, 2027 date for baseline inventories and replacement plans, so expect more notices and better data over the next year.
Step 2: Find the right place to test
The most reliable spot is the service line right where it comes into the building, usually in a basement, crawl space or utility room near the main shut-off valve. A state health department guide describes the same approach: locate the water service line coming into the building, typically in the basement, near an inlet valve. In slab-on-grade homes it may enter in a garage, closet or utility room, or be visible only near the meter box outside.
Two details matter here:
- Test the pipe on the street side of your shut-off valve or meter, before any fittings. Pipe after a repair or a new meter may have been swapped for a different material, so it will not tell you what is underground.
- Look at the shape. Lead pipes often widen at the base and form a bulb-like shape where they meet a fitting, and they tend to bend in soft curves rather than sharp elbows. Lead joints are often wiped solder, which looks like a rounded blob.
Step 3: Run the scratch and magnet tests
You need a flathead screwdriver or an old key, a refrigerator magnet, and a flashlight. The steps below follow the method New Jersey’s environmental agency publishes.
- Look first. Note the color of the pipe as it sits. Dull gray is a flag. Green or brown-orange suggests copper or iron.
- Prepare the surface. If the pipe is painted, wrapped or corroded, carefully expose and clean a small, flat patch so you can see the metal. EPA researchers note that skipping this step is a common cause of false results.
- Scratch gently. Use a key or the edge of a screwdriver on one small spot. Do not gouge, and do not file or sand the pipe, which creates dust.
- Read the color. Shiny silver underneath means it may be lead. Penny-colored means copper.
- Try the magnet. Lead is not magnetic. A magnet that sticks points to galvanized iron or steel.
- Wash your hands and wipe the area with a damp paper towel when you finish. Do not sweep or vacuum dry debris.
If the pipe is silver when scratched and the magnet does not stick, treat it as lead until a professional says otherwise. Note that a non-magnetic pipe could also be brass or stainless, so the color and softness together are what count.
What each result usually means
| Pipe material | Color as found | Scratch test | Magnet | Treat as |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | Dull gray | Shiny silver, soft | Does not stick | Lead service line |
| Galvanized steel or iron | Gray, often rusty | Dark gray, hard | Sticks | Lead-risk line, needs replacement under current EPA rules |
| Copper | Brown or green | Penny color | Does not stick | Non-lead pipe |
| Plastic (PVC, PEX, polyethylene) | White, blue, red, black | Cannot scratch like metal | Does not stick | Non-lead pipe |
The lead and copper rows come from the New Jersey guidance. The plastic row is a general description of modern materials, so a plastic pipe inside the house does not tell you what the buried section is. Verify the portion that is actually entering the building.
Why galvanized pipe matters too
Many homeowners treat “lead” and “galvanized” as two separate problems. Under recent EPA rules they are not. Galvanized pipe can absorb and later release lead, so galvanized lines that need replacement are counted alongside lead lines. If a magnet sticks to your service line, do not stop there. Ask your utility how it classifies the line and whether it ever sat downstream of a lead pipe.
When the test is unclear or you cannot reach the pipe
Some situations defeat a quick check:
- The pipe is buried in a wall or under a slab.
- Layers of paint or corrosion hide the metal.
- The line was partly replaced and nobody recorded it.
- You rent and cannot modify the pipe.
In these cases, escalate in order. First records: utility files, permit history and the original plumbing plans. Then an on-site inspection by a licensed plumber. Digging is the last resort. EPA’s research program describes excavation as the confirmation method that shows the whole line, but one that is costly and disruptive, which is why professionals try records and on-site checks first.
Test your water, too
Knowing the pipe is lead does not tell you how much lead reaches your faucet, and a copper pipe can still deliver lead from solder or fixtures. EPA advises using a state-certified lab, and many labs offer mail-in kits at modest cost, per its lead testing guidance. Our own homeowner’s guide to water quality testing explains what to expect from the process.
If your results show lead, or you have a pregnant household member or young children, call your local health department or your doctor about next steps. They can advise on exposure and on safe drinking water in the meantime. Do not rely on a plumber alone for health guidance.
Replacement: full line, not half
If you confirm lead, the right fix is to remove it. Plumbers and regulators advise against partial replacement, where only the utility side or only the private side is swapped, because partial work can disturb existing lead and temporarily raise levels in your water. Under the LCRI, water systems must fully replace lead and galvanized lines under their control within 10 years, with limited exceptions, and a line counts as replaced only when the entire length is removed.
For homeowners, this means coordinating with the utility. Ask whether it plans to replace its side, whether it will do the private side too, and whether any funding or program covers your portion.
What it costs
EPA’s historical estimate for a full lead service line replacement, covering both utility and customer portions, is an average of about $4,700, with a range from $1,200 to $12,300 per line. That is an older national figure, and your price depends on line length, depth, pavement, landscaping and local labor. We do not publish fixed prices for this work, so the only reliable number is a written quote for your property. To see how contractors build those numbers, read our guides to water line installation cost and how plumbing estimates work.
Living through a remodel when lead is a possibility
Pipe work often comes up during a bathroom or kitchen remodel, when walls are open and old plumbing is exposed. That is a good time to check what is behind the drywall, and to plan around dust and debris. For practical advice on lead safety during a remodel, including how to keep a household functioning while work is under way, this page is worth a read before demolition starts.
Selling a home with lead pipes
No federal law requires you to replace lead pipes just to sell. What federal rules do require, for homes built before 1978, is disclosure of known lead-based paint hazards and a chance for the buyer to inspect, as set out on HUD’s disclosure addendum. That form concerns paint, not pipes, but sellers are encouraged to share what they know about other lead hazards too. State and local rules differ, so ask your agent or a real estate attorney what applies where you live. In practice, a documented pipe check or a completed replacement answers a buyer’s question before it becomes a negotiation.
Landlord or tenant: who handles lead pipes?
The general pattern is that the owner of the building is responsible for the plumbing that serves it, and a tenant is responsible for damage they cause. Lease terms and state law fill in the details, and they vary, so check your lease and your state’s landlord-tenant rules.
- Tenants: You can run the scratch test on exposed pipe only if your lease and landlord allow it, and without cutting or filing anything. If you suspect lead, put the concern in writing to the landlord or property manager and ask for the utility’s inventory entry for the address. You can also ask your local health department about water testing.
- Landlords and property managers: Pull the utility inventory for each address, document the material you find, and keep photos. For multi-unit and commercial buildings, a licensed plumber can survey the service entry and risers in one visit. Our property manager service checklist helps you prepare a request.
Our perspective: what we see on the job
Most people who call us about lead have already scratched a pipe and want a second opinion. The scratch test is a good screen, and we encourage it, but we see two recurring problems. People test a short section of newer copper that a previous owner installed near the meter, and assume the whole line is copper. Or they find a gray pipe, panic, and start planning a dig before checking the utility’s records.
Our approach is to work from the cheapest, least disruptive evidence to the most expensive. Records first, then a clean test at the entry point, then a licensed plumber’s inspection, and only then excavation if it is truly needed. We explain the findings in plain terms, put the scope in a written free quote, and recommend full line replacement rather than a partial fix when lead is confirmed.
We are locally based in Burbank and licensed and insured. If a test shows lead, we do not want you to feel rushed. Get the water tested, get a quote, and compare the scope as well as the number.
— Serghei
When to bring in a licensed plumber
Call a plumber when you cannot reach the pipe, when the results disagree, when you find galvanized or lead pipe, or when you plan any work on the service line. We offer repiping and remodel services for residential and commercial properties, and we can inspect your entry point, document what we find, and give you a free quote. If you want to see what a typical job looks like before you call, our pipe installation process guide lays out the steps. Property owners with multiple buildings can start from our commercial plumbing page.
To request an inspection or quote, reach us through our website.
FAQ
How do I tell if a water pipe is lead?
Look for a dull gray pipe that is soft enough to scratch with a key and turns shiny silver underneath. Lead is not magnetic, so a magnet will not stick. Clean a small patch first, since paint and corrosion cause false readings, and confirm with your utility’s inventory or a licensed plumber.
Will a magnet stick to lead?
No. Lead is non-magnetic. A magnet that sticks suggests galvanized iron or steel, which current EPA rules also treat as a lead-risk line. A magnet that does not stick could mean lead or copper, so use the scratch test to tell them apart.
Do I have lead pipes if my house is old?
Not necessarily, but age raises the odds. Check your utility’s service line inventory for your address first, then test the pipe where it enters your home. Pipes inside the house may have been replaced even when the service line has not, so check both.
How much does it cost to replace a lead service line?
EPA’s historical figure is an average of about $4,700 per line, with a range of $1,200 to $12,300. Actual quotes depend on line length, depth, surfaces to restore and local labor. A written quote for your property is the only number you can budget on.
Can I sell a house with lead pipes?
Yes. Federal law does not require replacing lead pipes to sell. Sellers of homes built before 1978 must disclose known lead-based paint hazards, and state or local rules may add more, so ask your agent or an attorney what applies to you.
Sources
- NJDEP Service Line Identification
- EPA: Final LCRI Fact Sheet, States and Public Water Systems
- EPA: Lead Service Line Identification Test Bed
- EPA: How can I tell if my water contains lead?
- EPA: LCRI Questions and Answers
- Burbank Water and Power: Water Line Inventory
- 1Water: Lead Service Line Inventory deadlines
- Louisiana Department of Health: How to Identify a Lead Water Service Line
- EPA Researchers Share Approaches to Identify Lead Service Lines
- EPA: LCRI Fact Sheet, Calculating Service Line Replacements
- EPA: Strategies to Achieve Full Lead Service Line Replacement
- HUD: Lead-Based Paint Disclosure Addendum
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